Shimla

When Himachal Pradesh was in the process of attaining statehood, it stood out as one of the few territories that were geographically fragmented, separated by districts belonging to Punjab. Prior to this, the region consisted of a cluster of small princely states that had been collectively referred to as the "Punjab Hill States." In total, there were around 30 princely states along with one British-administered district, all of which were later reorganized and distributed across the 12 present-day districts of Himachal Pradesh. The list is as follows:

Princely States	Capital	Last ruler	Established in	Currently Part Of (districts)
Bilaspur	Bilaspur	Raja Anand Chand	7th century	Bilaspur
Chamba	Chamba	Raja Lakshman Singh	6th century	Chamba
Mandi	Mandi	Raja Joginder Sen	1527	Mandi
Suket	Sundernagar	Raja Lakshman Sen	1765	Mandi
Sirmaur	Nahan	Raja Rajendra Prakash	1090	Sirmaur
Bushahr (Rampur)	Rampur	Raja Padam Singh	7th century	Kinnaur
Keonthal	Junga	Raja Balbir Singh	765 AD	Shimla
Kumharsain	Kumarsain	Raja Padam Dev	11th century	Shimla
Bhajji	Bhajji	Raja Raghunath Singh	17th century	Solan
Darkoti	Darkoti	Rana Raghunath Singh	11th century	Shimla
Jubbal	Jubbal	Rana Joginder Sen	1800s	Shimla
Koti	Koti	Raja Hira Singh	10th century	Shimla
Kunihar	Kunihar	Thakur Raghunath Singh	1154	Solan
Kuthar	Kuthar	Thakur Narayan Singh	17th century	Solan
Mahlog	Mahlog	Raja Mahender Singh	1180	Solan
Baghal	Arki	Raja Kishen Chand	11th century	Solan
Beja	Beja	Rana Shiv Singh	17th century	Solan
Balsan	Balsan	Raja Gopal Singh	15th century	Shimla
Dhami	Halog	Rana Dalip Singh	1815	Shimla
Ghund	Ghund	Rana Raghunath Singh	17th century	Shimla
Tharoch	Tharoch	Rana Shamsher Singh	17th century	Shimla
Sangri	Sangri	Rana Fateh Singh	16th century	Shimla
Ratesh	Ratesh	Rana Gopal Singh	15th century	Shimla
Theog	Theog	Rana Jai Singh	15th century	Shimla
Tikari	Tikari	Rana Pratap Singh	16th century	Shimla

As we observe today, Shimla—once known as Simla—encompasses a collection of former princely states. However, during the colonial era, the summer capital of British India functioned as a distinctly English town nestled in the Shivalik range of the Himalayas. For nearly seven months each year, between 1864 and 1947—a span of 83 years—the administrative capital of British India oscillated between Calcutta, Delhi (and later, New Delhi), and Simla. With each seasonal shift, the entire government machinery would relocate between these cities, and it was within the walls of the Viceregal House that most pivotal decisions were made. It was from this unique practice that the gradual Anglicisation of Shimla began.

One glance at the building names from pre-independence Simla paints a vivid picture of what was essentially a transplanted English township in the heart of the Himalayas. Roughly 400 such names have been documented, evoking images of a miniature Britain—names like Chadwick, Buttermere, Dorothy Cottage, Charleston, Milsington, St. Albans, Annadale, Clarendon, Woodvilla, Waverley, Sandringham, Downdale, etc. made up the core of colonial Simla. In stark contrast, the outer perimeter of this core contained villages with indigenous names such as Chahli, Gorchha, Sanan, Baresh, Kainth ja Jubar, and Kasumpati Bazar, reflecting the layered reality of Simla's demography. Yet, beyond just nomenclature, the town was marked by rigid racial segregation based on wards and vicinities. The areas collectively known as the Bazar Ward—comprising Boileauganj, Kaithu, Lakkar Bazar, Chhota Simla, and Lower Simla—were reserved for the native population. Meanwhile, the more exclusive Station Ward, made up of 25 municipal corporations, remained under British control.

Interestingly, the Station Ward was not entirely devoid of Indian ownership. Several Indian properties bore names such as Bhajji Cottage, Bishen Lodge, Dholpur House, Narain Villa etc.. However, British control extended even to these, as Indian civilians—regardless of wealth—were largely barred from occupying the colonial buildings within the Station Ward unless they were of royal or official stature. Despite owning numerous properties, most Indians were systematically excluded from residence in these prestigious zones. Among the many colonial constructions, the most iconic was the Viceregal House, an architectural magnum opus built in the Jacobethan style. It served as the official residence of the Viceroy and symbolised the centre of British power in the hills. Today, it is home to the Indian Institute of Advanced Study. But at the time, it was the epicentre of imperial decisions.

One such decision occurred in May 1947, when Louis Mountbatten, the last British Viceroy of India, held crucial meetings at the Viceregal House. It was here that he entrusted English lawyer Cyril Radcliffe with the task of drawing the boundary that would divide British India into the nations of India and Pakistan. That infamous and hastily drawn line—sketched in mere weeks without adequate understanding of the subcontinent’s complex demography—resulted in one of the bloodiest upheavals in modern history, the impact of which continues to reverberate on both sides of the border.

Another important colonial landmark is Peterhoff, located in the Chauramaidan area. It functioned as the Punjab High Court in 1863 and later became the site of the trial of Nathuram Vinayak Godse, the assassin of Mahatma Gandhi, between 1948 and 1949. The Gaiety Theatre, which opened in 1887, stands as a relic of Simla’s colonial cultural life. Its inaugural play, “Time Will Tell,” was staged by the Shimla Amateur Dramatic Club, although the author of the play remains unidentified.

Simla was also dotted with properties owned by prominent British individuals. One such notable figure was Joseph Elston, who in 1894 acquired Alderton, a part of the greater Annandale View Estates. Today, the property serves as the official residence of the Chief of Staff at the Headquarters of the Army Training Command. Elston’s name holds weight not merely because of his real estate portfolio—he reportedly owned as many as 30 properties between 1879 and 1904—but also because of his stature. He was a director of the Alliance Bank of Simla, one of colonial India’s earliest financial institutions, which expanded its presence to Delhi, Lahore, Rawalpindi, Rangoon, and even London. He also served on the Simla municipal committee for six years, further entrenching his legacy in the town’s colonial fabric.

Today, many of these colonial buildings are still standing, though repurposed. The Viceregal House is now the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, Peterhoff is a state guesthouse, and the Gaiety Theatre continues to host cultural events. These sites, once symbols of British imperial control, have slowly been woven into the modern identity of Shimla—a town where layers of colonial history and local resilience still exist side by side.

Property Name	Current Occupancy	Neighbourhood
Ellerslie	Himachal Pradesh Secretariat; houses key administrative offices	Chaura Maidan
Barnes Court	Raj Bhavan (Governor's Residence)	Chotta Shimla
Knockdrin	Government staff housing quarters	Boileauganj
Kelston	State Council of Education and Training	Lakkar Bazaar
Forest Hill	State-run guesthouse for bureaucrats	Kaithu
Benmore	Himachal Tourism guesthouse for tourists and dignitaries	Near Mall Road
Fairlawns	VIP Government Guesthouse	Boileauganj
Carlton House	Government departmental offices	Chotta Shimla
Craig Gardens	Private boutique homestay	Kaithu
The Shubbery	Offices for heritage/local governance	Chaura Maidan
Springfield	Indian Army guesthouse	Boileauganj
Dingle Estate	CPWD rest house for senior officials	Longwood
The Retreat	President of India’s summer residence	Chharabra
Green Bank	Himachal state guesthouse	Summer Hill
Uplands	Private bungalow	Jakhoo Hill
Southwood	Government residential quarters	Lakkar Bazaar
Oak Villa	Heritage-marked, limited private use	Near Annandale
Brockhurst	Military administrative workspace	Elysium Hill
Inverness	Partially restored private home	Kaithu
Forest View	Government circuit house	Boileauganj
Brentwood	Boutique heritage hotel	Near Lakkar Bazaar
Maycot	VIP government residence	Kaithu
Hillside	Govt staff housing	Chotta Shimla
Claremont	Administrative department facility	Jakhoo
Redlands	Private tenements	Kaithu
Cedar House	Forest Department headquarters	Summer Hill
The Gables	Serviced apartments	Jakhoo Slopes
Glenmore	Privately held estate	Longwood
Northwood	Restored private cottage	Boileauganj
Mount Pleasant	Protocol guesthouse	Near Peterhoff
Clarendon	Tourism guesthouse	Kaithu
Ridge View	Municipal Corporation staff quarters	Near Ridge
Cambridge House	Education department office	Elysium
Glen Roy	Private estate	Jakhoo Area
Braemar Lodge	Private restored homestay	Chotta Shimla
Myrtle Bank	Private apartments	Summer Hill
Woodside	Private converted residence	Boileauganj
Parkside	Tourist-rented private home	Jakhoo Slopes
Woodbank	VIP guesthouse for top officials	Near Raj Bhavan
Seaforth	Govt housing	Kaithu
Lynwood	Converted into flats	Longwood
Elmbank	Forest department staff housing	Summer Hill
The Maples	CPWD rest house	Chotta Shimla
Belhaven	Privately owned heritage estate	Jakhoo Hill
Fir Lodge	PWD guesthouse	Boileauganj
Cedar Lodge	Tourism department homestay	Elysium Hill
Fairview	Heritage villa, partially public	Near Lakkar Bazaar
Briarwood	Privately restored home	Summer Hill
Hazelwood	State staff housing	Kaithu
Rothney Castle	Abandoned, under ASI review	Jakhoo Hill

The Annadale area of Shimla, once the lively social centre of British India’s summer capital, holds the distinction of hosting the Durand Football Tournament—one of the oldest football tournaments in India, dating back to 1888. It was on these very grounds that Mohun Bagan, India’s iconic football club, once took on elite British regiments in matches that transcended mere sport and came to symbolise defiance and national pride. Post-independence, the tournament evolved to feature matches between Indian clubs, but perhaps one of its most remarkable moments came on 23rd November 1996, when, for the first time in history, a non-Indian team—Al-Naft Football Club from Iraq—played at the Durand. Facing Jagajit Cotton and Textile FC (JCT) from Phagwara in Punjab’s Kapurthala district, the Iraqi side narrowly lost 0–1, but the match remains memorable as a rare international fixture in a venue with such colonial legacy.

Shimla is also steeped in whispered lore of underground British-era tunnels connecting various colonial structures across the city. While many of these remain speculative, two passages have been officially acknowledged by historians and urban planners. The first is the Lower Bazaar Tunnel, also known locally as Khacchar Surang, which was built in 1905. The second is the Elysium Tunnel, commonly referred to as the Auckland Tunnel. These tunnels were not classified as secret, but their design allowed for cooler transit and discreet movement between the city’s scattered administrative hubs nestled among steep hills. It’s compelling to imagine high-ranking British officials using these covered paths to traverse between offices, homes, and clubs, away from the crowded and often chaotic scenes above ground.

During the Second World War, the conflict's reach extended into the Himalayan foothills, including Shimla’s neighbouring districts. In towns not far from Shimla, particularly around Kangra, many Italian nationals residing in British India were arrested once Italy joined the Axis powers. These civilians were automatically classified as ‘enemy aliens’ and interned in camps set up by the colonial government. The most prominent of these camps was established in YOL—originally an acronym for “Young Officers Living”—which had started as a British cantonment. Located about 230 kilometres northwest of Shimla, the camp held hundreds of Italians between 1941 and 1945. What makes this internment even more intriguing is that a separate, in-camp currency was introduced during their detention. This unique form of currency, distinct from regular British Indian money, acted more like coupons and was used to purchase goods within the boundaries of the camp, effectively creating a closed-loop wartime economy.

All of these elements—the football tournaments at Annadale, the underground tunnels, and the wartime internment policies—serve as reminders that Shimla’s past is not merely one of colonial leisure and mountain views, but a tapestry of sporting history, military secrecy, and geopolitical ripples. As visitors walk the Ridge or pass by the Viceregal Lodge today, few might realise that beneath the hill station’s quaint veneer lies a dense archive of events, characters, and decisions that shaped not only Shimla, but the subcontinent’s twentieth-century history.